Sophia (what a cutie!)

Aloe/Cacti Plants in Bloom

Bad Moon Rising

The Depth of Culture

One of the driving forces of the HIV/AIDS epidemic here in Lesotho is multiple concurrent partners (MCP). Many people have a "main" partner, like a husband/wife or boyfriend/girlfriend and then one or more on the side. This is the NORM. Many wives know for a fact that their husbands have a girlfriend on the side in the camp town and or in South Africa. It goes both ways as well. Wives often times have boyfriends in a nearby village or in the camp towns. So why is this so? Many basotho (almost all) are loyal Christians and regular church goers. I don't know much about the bible myself but doesn't it preach monogamy and staying faithful? Or maybe the missionaries left that part out when they arrived in this mountain kingdom in the 19th century and encountered King Moshoeshoe (Lesotho's founding father) and his 30 something wives. Traditionally, Lesotho was a polygamous country (is it still?) with men taking as many wives as he could buy with his cows. Bride payment is done with the exchange of cows. The going rate today for your average bride is 6 cows. But I myself have never met a masotho man with more than one wife. So does this mean that Lesotho is a polygamous or monogamous country? In my opinion it is very much polygamous. No, men are not taking more than one wife (in my encounters), but they are taking more than one partner. So fine, have your cake and eat it too. Have a girlfriend in South Africa while you work at the mine. Have a boyfriend in a nearby village while your husband is away in the mine. But why not protect yourself? Why not use a condom? This is a very difficult question to answer. For women it is much more difficult to have a say over sexual decisions. If a man does not want to use a condom, one is not used. And if a woman refuses to have sex, she has severed that relationship, and everything that goes along with it, like money, food, a cell phone, etc. The issue is complicated and has many different dimensions. But why the hell are men not taking more responsibility to protect themselves and the women they love? To many questions and not enough answers. So what's the solution? Do we push culture change and call it behavior change? Is polygamy a bad thing? Hell if I know, but I do know if something doesn't change basotho will one day become a lost civilization that school children learn about in history class.

What's Your Ecological Footprint??

Most of us who are in anyway environmentally aware realize that the majority of the worlds resources are consumed by developed nations. We drive big cars long distances to work everyday, we take long, hot showers, we leave lights on when not using them, our food travels 3,000 miles before it reaches our tables, the list is never ending. I will not go on about that but since I have arrived in Lesotho my lifestyle has drastically changed in more ways than one. One of these ways has been my consumption patterns. I am happy to say I do not consume nearly half as much as I did in America. On average I use about 20litres of water per day (more if its a laundry day). I don't have electricity but I burn through 3 or 4 candles a week and sometimes I burn paraffin. I don't own a car and barely ride in them, mostly I'm on foot, but when I do ride in a taxi there is usually black smoke coming out the exhaust and strong fumes to contend with. I don't use a flush toilet. I have a "pit latrine" (outhouse), so all my shit goes into a hole in the ground. I don't have trash pick up and I don't recycle. I burn all my garbage. Oddly though it seems I never really have a lot to burn. Is that the reduced packaging? Anyway, I am sure that I am less of a consumer here in Lesotho than I was back in America, but am I "greener"? Does less consumption equate to a "greener" lifestyle, even though I am burning my garbage and shitting in a hole? Do these things balance each other out? I took the "ecological footprint" test and a lot of the questions did not to pertain to my lifestyle in Lesotho and a lot of the answers I had were not an option on the multiple choice options, but I did the best I could. It turns out my footprint was really low (2.04) but I'm not to sure how accurate those results were for me. Let me know your thoughts and check out your ecological footprint @ www.myfootprint.org.

Surfing in Mozambique

Holy Cow!!

Hey all! I'm such a slacker and I apologize for not blogging in over 3 months! Really, everything is great and I am fine. I just got back from an amazing trip to Mozambique. It was awesome! Lesotho is great and beautiful. I cannot believe I've been here for over one year. Back to my site tomorrow after sun, surf, and yoga. It's going to be great! Hope all is well. Khotso, Pula, Nala.

Funerals in Lesotho

Death is a part of life as we all know but death seems to occur all to often here in Lesotho. Funerals are a common event that take place every weekend (you can tell one is taking place by the big tents that are set up like you might see at a graduation or wedding ceremony back in America). I have decided to write this blog on the tradition of funerals because there is not a Saturday that goes by that I don't see those tents. I myself have only attended one funeral since I arrived but I have had the opportunity to attend many. I choose to be picky about attending because all of my Saturdays would be occupied otherwise. The one funeral I did attend was for my friend and neighbor, Ausi Maleshoane. She was a member of the local support group made up of People Living with HIV/AIDS. She was a very small, thin woman who always greeted people with a smile even if it was obvious she was not feeling well that day. She became sick (a common cold or TB) around Christmas/New Year and eventually went to the hospital. It was there that she passed away having finally lost the battle with AIDS. She was 37 years old. I had the honor to participate and help the family in all the preparations since Ausi Maleshoane was a friend and neighbor of mine. FRIDAY: The Bo-'M'e (women) have been busy all week brewing joala (local beer) and gathering all the food and firewood for the big feast. My main task for the day was to help peel and chop carrots, onions, and potatoes. The work went quickly with so many Bo'M'e helping. The Bo-'N'tate (men) go to the cemetery early in the morning to dig the grave. They come back and have a plate of food and joala before they get ready to slaughter the animals. A goat is first slaughtered in the name of the one who has passed and then they move onto the cow. This task is reserved for the men only but the women help clean the intestines out which are later eaten only by the members of the family. The various parts of the dead animals are brought to the cooking hut and laid out on the dead animals hide. The women begin to prepare and cook the meat on the open fires. There is a meal offered to those who have helped with preparations throughout the day. Like I said earlier, some parts of the meat are reserved for just the family members (intestines and liver for example). The family included me in this category and I had the privilege of eating both the intestines and the liver. The intestines were very good but the liver I did not enjoy. Have you ever eaten meat from an animal that was killed 2 hours before? Fresh meat for sure. People gradually start to wander back to their homes while others linger or return back later in the evening for an all night vigilance with the body. There are periods of singing and praying that last until 5 in the morning. I forgot to mention the body arrives in a van that afternoon and is placed inside the rondaval where the mourners lay beside the coffin all night. I myself did not take part in the all night vigilance but was woken up many times throughout the night from the singing. SATURDAY: People begin to arrive by 10 or 11am Saturday morning where the guests of the funeral get a chance to view the body. As many people as possible cram into the small hut where the body is. There is a lit candle on the top of the partially opened coffin. People one by one circle the coffin and view the body and then everyone sings and prays. This is where I viewed my first dead body. After the viewing the coffin is brought out under the tent where the service is held. There is a program where the pastor, family, and friends all get a chance to speak. Before anyone speaks the whole crowd breaks out and sings for the speaker. The mother of Ausi Maleshoane asked me to speak at the service. I was reluctant but agreed to speak (in sesotho). It was a bit nerve racking but I think people liked it. After the service the coffin is loaded back into the van where close family cram in around the coffin to go to the cemetery. There is a procession that follows the van to the grave site. Here at the grave site there is more singing and praying. The pastor sprinkles the first granules of dirt over the coffin following with the youngest male relative to the oldest each with a shovel full of dirt. After, all the men take part in filling the grave. The procession then goes back to the location of the service. Before anyone enters the compound all have to wash their hands with fresh water to cleanse yourself. After everyone feasts on the abundance of meat, vegetables, potatoes, and joala. The party goes on well into the night. SUNDAY: The women of the village of the deceased person come together to clean everything left behind by that person. Some women stay behind and clean the inside of the house, smearing fresh dung on the floor and others take all the clothes, blankets, and shoes (of the deceased) to the river of the next village over to wash. They say it is bad luck to wash in that person's own village because the spirit of that person will linger on. They always say they go to the river (instead of the tap) because the river is flowing and it will take anything that is left over, away. I went to the river with about 6 or 7 other women and a bucket of joala. After everything is washed we go back to the house and sit inside the cooking hut. There is still uncooked meat left over from the slaughter; a leg here, a head there. The flies are intense. The women that helped to wash and clean all share a big bowl of papa and cooked meat and a never ending supply of joala. The big cups of joala are passed around. No one has their own cup of joala. Two and a half hours later I am full, a bit drunk, and overwhelmed by the constant sesotho chatter between the women. I get up to go with my host mother, 'M'e Mathabo and officially leave the remnants of the funeral behind. This is a funeral in Lesotho.

More Wild Coast Photos!!!

Getting to South Africa
Mdumbi

Bulungula River

Bulungula Lodge (where we stayed)

Goat on the beach

Wild Coast Photos!!!!!

Sun setting behind sand dune
Coffee Bay

Bulungula River and Xhosa Village

Bulungula River meets the Indian Ocean

Bulungula River

Let us talk about safe sex

My garden

'M'e Makelebone and Abuti Moshoeshoe

The Wild Coast

Hey guys! I hope everyone is doing well back in the USA and hopefully it's getting warmer too! Things here in Lesotho are going well and I just returned from a wonderful vacation to the Wild Coast in South Africa. The name implies everything about what Wild Coast is-very WILD. I spent over a week on white sand beaches and swimming in the warm Indian Ocean. It was absolutely beautiful. The lush green hills that are scattered with round mud huts roll down and meet the white sand beaches. It is the only place in all my travels that I have shared the beach with cows and goats. I wondered why they wandered to the beach because there is nothing on the sand that they can graze on, but maybe they just wanted to spend a little time at the beach as well. To get to the Wild Coast from Lesotho was an adventure all by itself. We left Lesotho by 7:30am on a Thursday morning and took public transport all the way to the coast. Shortly after crossing the border into South Africa we quickly got onto a taxi but after 2hours of driving it broke down in the middle of NOWHERE. We waited on the roadside for over 2.5 hours before finally getting a lift to Umtata (the major hub to Wild Coast). But by the time we arrived in Umtata it was too late to continue on to our destination and we were forced to stay in the dirty, sketchy town. We arrived at a hotel in the center of town. As soon as we entered our room I immediately noticed cockroaches crawling on the beds and coming out of the sinks. There was also a loud bar right behind our room. I could lean out my window and spit on the men's head below if I wanted. Needless to say, we didn't get very much rest that night. We later got confirmation that the hotel was indeed a hoar house. The next morning we took the first taxi out of Umtata to Coffee Bay. When the taxi driver dropped us off at the side of the road I asked him where the ocean was and the hostel. His response was that it was 20km (13-13miles) down the dirt road and that there was no public transport to that place. So with a combination of walking and getting a few lifts here and there we finally made it to Mdumbi after 1.5days of travelling from Lesotho. It was a great time on the Wild Coast and I didn't want to leave at all, but I guess all vacations must come to an end. I'm already planning my next trip to the ocean for July to Mozambique. I love the Mountain Kingdom of Lesotho but I think I'm an ocean girl at heart.

Have you ever seen....

-a woman breast-feeding 2 children at once (different aged children)?
-a goats head being roasted over an open fire?
-a freshly killed goat being dragged past you as you try to enjoy a plate of papa, moroho, and goat meat (inside a restaurant)?
-a little person (midget) dressed in a Santa Claus suit dancing?
-2 donkeys mating? 2 horses? 2 dogs?
-the sky at night from the southern hemisphere?

I have.

Your Know You've Become Accoustomed to Life in Lesotho When...

-picking your nose in public becomes second nature
-you prefer to use your pee bucket instead of your pit latrine
-you set your fork aside and use your hands to eat instead
-you carry everything on your head
-you choose to cook papa and moroho for yourself
-you don't think twice about riding in a vehicle with live animals
-you become extremely happy when your taxi driver chooses to play house music for the duration of the ride

DURBAN!

Hey all! Happy New Year! Hope all is well back in the cold winter of "America". I had an incredible new year in Durban, South Africa. It was my first time leaving Lesotho in 7 months and it was quite a culture shock to experience the very developed sections of South Africa. They have McDonald's, big malls, movie theaters, nice restaurants, highways, and so much more. Durban was great! I spent most of my time just south of Durban on the beach (its summer here). The water was amazing but the surf was pretty strong so I got tired after 20 minutes in the water. I went to an imax movie theater and saw the "new" Batman movie. I ate great food and went to the mall. For New Year's Eve I went to an Indian club in the city and rang in the new year. It was pretty sweet. Its great to be back in Lesotho but it was very sad to leave the ocean. Oh and our room got robbed in Bloemfontein, South Africa and I got my camera, my phone charger, and solio (that I hadn't even paid for yet) stolen. It sucked but that stuff happens. Hope everyone is doing well back in the states. Happy 2009!